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Grace Taylor and Ranan Itchon
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Grace Taylor and Ranan Itchon
Through the humanitarian work of World Central Kitchen and at his numerous award-winning restaurants, José Andrés strives to achieve his mission: to change the world through the power of food. Born in northern Spain, the chef first gained acclaim for his take on the cooking of his heritage, where he melded tradition with innovation. In the 1990s, he was responsible for introducing and popularizing tapas to Americans at Jaleo, which continues to embrace the diverse regional fare of modern Spain. Food and culture go hand in hand, and Andrés didn’t limit his culinary curiosity to his native land. After extensive travel and research, he opened Zaytinya in 2002, which explores the foods of the eastern end of the Mediterranean: Greece, Turkey, and Lebanon. The word Zaytinya is Turkish for olive oil, the cherished ingredient common in these cuisines.
In his cookbook by the same name, Andrés writes, “The connections between the people of this region are old and deep, and their shared food traditions prove that what brings us together is more powerful than what separates us.”
It’s exciting that Andrés has chosen to bring his interpretation of those delicious, shared traditions here. Indeed, the fare at Zaytinya Nashville, open in The Gulch at the W, is rich in variety, vibrancy, and flavor. The menu is composed of an array of small plates — mezze — inspired by tradition but enhanced by what many call “the José way.”
While the restaurant layout is similar to its predecessor, the decor, in shades of blue balanced by neutral tones, captures the colors of the Mediterranean. The bar program offers several creative cocktails (ah, the Za’atar Margarita!), and you’ll find intriguing wines specific to the region available by the glass or bottle. Want a crisp, food-friendly white? Look for any listing Assyrtiko, a grape now widely grown in Greece, prized for its citrusy minerality. Akakies, a sparkling rosé also from Greece that imparts notes of strawberry and rose petals, feels elegant and celebratory.
With its selection of spreads, meat, seafood, and vegetable-based mezze, along with select large-format items, there are several ways to approach the menu. For our first visit, we decided on the Chef Experience. This involves a 13+ course tasting for the table. Not only does it remove the pressure of decision-making, it provides a generous sampling of all kinds of plates.
Regardless of your choice, your meal begins with the service of freshly baked flatbreads, great puffed pillows that arrive warm, accompanied by a small bowl of fruity olive oil striped with pomegranate molasses. For the first round of tastings, you’ll get three spreads and assorted crunchy vegetables. Hummus is sparked with harissa chili crisp. The eggplant is f ire-roasted, which gives a smoky undercurrent to the Baba Ghannouge. It is stirred with lemon juice, garlic, and tahini, a sprinkle of pomegranate arils adding bursts of sweetness. The surprise favorite of the trio is tirokafteri, goat cheese whipped with harissa, then pooled in Greek honey, toasted pine nuts, and a fleck of fresh mint. The contrast of sweet, heat, and pungency makes it a pleasure to eat.
Three vegetable mezze and one seafood dish comprise round two. Bright, lemony tabbouleh spooned into lettuce leaves is easy to pick up by hand. A classic Greek salad of black-eyed peas is more complex; the protein-dense pulses, layered with tomato and mushroom over warm greens, are finished with crumbles of feta. Swipe the falafel fritters through the tahini spread over the base of the plate, with a bit of turmeric pickles. There’s much to love about the Greek taverna-style shrimp dish, the crustaceans bathed in a butter-rich sauce of lemon, shallots, and fresh dill. Be sure to reserve some pita to sop up that sauce.
This leads to the meat mezze, one pork and one lamb, presented with a plate of crispy Brussels sprouts placed on a bed of garlicky yogurt. The scatter of barberries over the sprouts distinguishes the dish. Pork souvlaki is a traditional Greek street food; here, it is prepared with prized Ibérico pork, marinated and lightly charred. It is absolutely delicious. Lamb loin chops, rubbed in baharat, are properly grilled to bone-gnawing succulence, plated over puréed eggplant, with a side of broccolini florets.
The finale: two desserts. One is a petite parfait layering vanilla Greek yogurt, muscat-soaked apricots, and ground pistachios. The second is clever, bringing together a Southern staple, banana pudding, with Turkish sensibilities — the custard-like mixture laced with tahini, and sliced dates. Capping the confection is a round of caramelized phyllo dusted with salt and sesame seeds. Crack it with a spoon, and scoop up this marvel, a gratifying combination of textures and tastes.
Acclaimed chef, author, humanitarian, Andrés extends goodwill through good food. Each plate tells a story of culture and community. He’s been quoted as saying, “I realized early on the power of food to evoke memory, to bring people together, to transport you to other places, and I wanted to be a part of that.”
How lucky are we that he’s brought Zaytinya to Nashville to share those experiences, the José way?