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What to Try:
A selection from every category on the menu, like crispy Brussels sprouts, a volcano roll, asparagus and bacon yakitori, and chicken, pork or vegetable ramen.
Cocktails on draft are a good choice (try the shochu and house ginger-pineapple tonic), as are Japanese beers and sake. Or choose from the lengthy list of Japanese whiskeys.
Izakaya. Yakitori. Tonkatsu. A glance at the menu at East Nashville's new Two Ten Jack might prompt a quick panic over language barriers. Sure, Nashville is well versed in ramen these days (the roving pop-up Otaku South helped forge that path), but some terms still require a little bit of explanation. This casual izakaya-inspired neighborhood restaurant is here to guide you on a beginner's journey through the dialect of the Japanese gastropub.
It starts with a lengthy introduction from the server, who instructs you not only on unfamiliar menu terms but also on how to make the most of your experience:
Drink plenty. Izakaya are typically bars that happen to offer good food, so courses are meant to be enjoyed with specific beverages (beer, sake, whiskey, and wine).
Order whatever you want…but save room for the ramen. The small plates leading up to the star attraction are small but filling. Course things out, share, and when in doubt, refer back to rule number one.
You cannot take leftover ramen home with you or order it to go. Two Ten Jack's doesn't travel well, they sayend of discussion. So keep your eye on the proverbial prize or suffer the consequence of watching your uneaten remains disappear with the dirty dinnerware.
Have fun. The space is loud; there's an awesome playlist. Remember rule number one?
Inspired by his own travels to Japan, partner Patrick Burke, who also owns Zumi Sushi Japanese Kitchen in Hillsboro Village, decided it was time for Nashville to have its own izakaya. He'd eaten mind-blowing chicken yakitori (meat grilled on skewers) and experienced the Japanese tradition of happy hour wherein you transition from drinks to dinner while staying at the same bar. Nashville should share adopt that practice, he thought. Partnering with chef-restaurateur Jason McConnell (owner of several Franklin restaurants, including Red Pony; the two met when McConnell helped Burke open Zumi years ago), they enlisted executive chef Jess Benefield, formerly of Virago, to create the menu.
There are snack-size plates like edamame and house-made pickles, plus bigger small plates like sweet-and-sour salmon over a kewpie slaw and Japanese fried chicken. But don't bypass the sushi, sashimi, or nigirithe volcano roll is a heat-driven mouthful of spicy scallops and bits of cucumber. While it would be incredibly easy and tasty to make a meal of several small dishes, what you really want is the ramen. The three different types (chicken, pork, and vegetarian) will beckon from steaming, fragrant bowls as they pass by on their way to other tables.
Beer is a good start, says the server. Draft lines rotate regularly, and there's a nice selection of bottles from Belgium, Japan, and, Tennessee. Cocktails are exceptional, too, with many created by consultant Jon Yeager of Pour Taste, who installed house-made tonic, made with hints of pineapple and ginger, on the menu. It's batched with shochu, a Japanese version of vodka, and barreled and put on tap. (Those draft lines will rotate regularly, too.) Later in the meal, you might dip into the Japanese single malt whiskeys or extensive list of sakes. Explore more shochu with a flight of two-once pours.
And, of course, there is the ramen. All three variations differ in broth consistency, noodle size and density, and fixings. There's a lightness and peppery kick in the chicken broth (dig down and enjoy the chicken meatballs as you go), while the pork broth tastes almost buttery. In the yasai miso, a vegetarian option, mustard greens bring an unexpected zing. The noodles are a joy to slurp and savorin fact, it's encouraged.
Eating at Two Ten Jack is a journey, to be sure. But under the tutelage of your trusty server, it's one you'll look forward to taking again and again.
1900 Eastland Ave.; 615-454-2731; twotenjack.com